Fleetville, Camp, Hill End, Marshalswick, Oaklands, Smallford, Cell Barnes, Cunningham, Ellenbrook

Last updated on July 28th, 2021.

May 7th. Updated image details for Francis Bacon School page.
May 10th. New blog post: "More Turnpike Evidence". Below.
May 14th. Updated image details for
Oakwood School page.
May 15th. New blog post: "Battle From Hastings." Below.
May 27th. New title added to
Books page.
May 31st. New blog post: "A better Entrance". Below.
July 5th. New blog post: "Road to Nowhere". Below.
July 23rd. Updated details for
Fleetville School page.
July 23rd. Updated details for
Marshalswick School page.
July 27th. New blog post: "A Place of Rest". Below.
July 28th. July newsletter. Below.

Noticed this on your travels?
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On the corner of Coopers Green Lane and what used to be called Manor Road.



Check the chimney pots
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If you travel along Coopers Green Lane intending to turn along the road towards Hatfield Business Park you will discover the street plate names it Hatfield Avenue, although many of us recall it as Manor Road. Manor Road still exists, of course. As you turn off the Hatfield Garden Village roundabout you use Manor Road to reach the shops, but since the business park grew the road doesn't lead anywhere; the major length of it has been relabelled Hatfield Avenue.

The map extract above shows its junction with Coopers Green Lane (from centre left to centre top). On the corner is a house; in fact two separate properties. Look at the roofline where there are eight chimney pots. That's rather a lot for such a modest footprint.

Under the front eaves there is also a crest forming part of the external wall, and undoubtedly is linked to the ownership of Astwick Manor just along the road.

The cottages appear on all maps reaching back at least to the 1870s, and on only one map are they labelled – Astwick Manor Cottages, Today, the porches on each side have disappeared; so too has the rear outhouse. In fact, the doors, and the windows on both floors are blocked up.

On my bike rides from Beaumonts to Stanborough nearly 70 years ago I recall these cottages, and even then they appeared to be forgotten, neglected, empty; and nothing appears to have changed.

I wonder about the story of the Astwick Manor Cottages and must discover more.


Map courtesy National Library of Scotland; photos courtesy Google Streetview.

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Newsletter July

Welcome to the latest news
from our own East End

Triangle land in Camp Road

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Courtesy St Albans Museums

Newsletter July 2021

When houses began to appear on the Camp Estate in the first decade of the twentieth century, it was Camp View Road which was completed first, but a mix of homes and shops were also completed in Camp Road (then called Camp Lane because of its rural landscape).

The Camp district has many triangular corners where development was challenging, and one of those is still an open space one and a quarter centuries later. Although that is about to change.

The first building to the east of the triangle was a general shop and post office owned by Mr Thomas Gear, and he also owned the triangle. He made an arrangement with a bill posting company, which erected large hoardings and smaller poster boards. In the early days they were at the front, near the road and the land behind was unused except for bracing timbers to support the hoardings.

More recently the hoardings have moved to the back of the plot and a flower bed set in the grass gave a more attractive appearance to the "garden" and protected by a low decorative chain barrier.

You might have thought it still was not possible to build a house there, but it seems that two 2-bed maisonettes will sit on the site. The work site barriers are in place and one of the last vestiges of this Beaumonts Farm field will finally disappear.

Another change of land use is also about to occur, this time along the south side of Hatfield Road. Since the dawn of the 20th century a builders' yard to support the house building activities of W Bastin was accessible between two shops a little east of the Rats' Castle PH. Most of us who walk along that footpath will know Chapman's Autos. This is where Bastin's used to be, and Mr Bastin not only constructed some of the shops but also the houses backing onto the yard in Castle Road.

In place of the yard are to be four small houses. So even fewer workshops in this formerly very mixed neighbourhood, and even more people squeezed into little spaces. I can't think what arrangements might have been made at both these locations for parking cars.

Topics
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Twenty pages of topics about the East End for you to explore.

Ballito Project
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You might be able to help us. A major 2020 project charting the story of a company which closed 55 years ago. Do you remember Ballito?

Ballito Hosiery Mill

You may have learned that the very first factory in Fleetville was the one which gave the district its name – the Fleet Print Works.

After that closed in the middle of World War One it had a new use as a periscope and telescope factory before becoming home to one of the nation's most well-known manufacturers of ladies' stockings: Ballito Hosiery Mill. It opened for this use in 1925, although the mills which made the product began in Tennessee, USA. Ballito was taken over by Courtaulds in 1965 and the building sold to Marconi Instruments Ltd.

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Ballito employed hundreds, mainly women, and often on shift work. The company had a thriving social life, with a dance hall, sports hall, and a sports ground at Smallford. Lunchtime music programmes were even broadcast from there.

Ballito was one of Fleetville's major employers and many of the district's families would have had at least one member working at the Mill.

Fleetville Diaries would like to contact anyone who has any recollections of Ballito, if they were an employee, or attended social functions – and because of the time since the works closed, if your parents, uncles/aunts or even grandparents were employees.

We have a small number of engaging photographs taken at Ballito, a few taken in the first year or two of operation, others post-war, and one or two as the building was being demolished.

For the benefit of the younger people in our community, the Ballito Mill was on the site occupied by Morrison's today.

Please email through this site if you have something to offer the project.

SAOEE Blog

A Place of Rest
The Green Flag location which offers a calming location within an excellently maintained civic cemetery.

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Find the Green Ring
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This is the section east of the Midland Railway, but there is more: 6.5 km in total.

The eastern Green Ring

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At the light controlled crossing join the cycle path on the south side of Sandpit Lane parallel with the road.

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At the lower end of St Saviour's View join Lemsford Road until the public path on the left after Eastbury Court.

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Use the public path to cross the railway bridge to reach Jennings Road.

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At the bottom of the first section of Jennings Road cross over Clarence Road to the longer section, passing Verulam School on the right.

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At the junction with Woodstock Road North turn right over the brick table, travelling south.

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Keep Brampton Road on your right and follow Woodstock Road South. Until reaching Hatfield Road the road width is narrow and parking is an issue.

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At Hatfield Road use the light-controlled crossing to the Morrison's side. Cycle on the mixed use path in front of the store towards Sutton Road.

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At the junction with Sutton Road use the road, passing Castle Road on your left.

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Turn right off the road at the junction with Alban Way. Alban Way is a continuous cycle path as far as Griffiths Way, with a connection to the City Railway Station.

New Community Centre
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District Council leads on new Fleetville project, which the Community Centre Trust has aspired to create for many years.
After over eight decades ...

Plans to redevelop an ageing St Albans community centre into an outstanding eco-friendly facility have been given the go-ahead.

Fleetville Community Centre, in Royal Road, was built in the 1940s as a "temporary" structure.

Although well-maintained by the charitable trust that runs it, it is in poor structural condition, and is also expensive and inefficient to heat.

St Albans City & District Council, which owns the site, has been in talks with the trust and centre users about its redevelopment. It will now initiate a discussion with the Charity Commission about the development proposals to obtain their approval.

The Council's Cabinet – its decision-making body – agreed to move the project on to the next stage [yesterday]. This will involve drawing up concept designs and costs. The aim is to create a much-enhanced centre that can better meet the needs of local people and community activities. The new building will be larger, more energy-efficient and sustainable. Among the proposed features are a main hall, three or more meeting rooms, a children's suite, cafe, kitchen, toilets and an outdoor space.

Climate-control assets would include solar panels, heat pumps, water harvesting devices, electric vehicle charging points and green walls or roof.

To finance the project the Council will look to use income gained from development projects elsewhere in the District.

Councillor Robert Donald, Portfolio Holder for Commercial Development and Wellbeing, said:
"Fleetville Community Centre was originally built as a day nursery for women in the area who were working in nearby munitions factories in the Second World War. It has served residents very well since then, catering for a huge number of different groups and activities. However, it is not only clear that a new modern building is needed, but that it must be considerably larger to cope with increasing demand and diverse population in the area for the services on offer.

We are determined to deliver a first-class and inclusive community centre that will meet the needs of local people of all ages, cultures and interests; a centre that will also be equipped with the best and most up-to-date climate change sustainability features such as solar panels and rainwater harvesting.

The project will require an enabling development to provide finance towards the overall construction and we will now be looking at the best options for that. We will continue to consult with residents, user groups and the Fleetville Community Centre Trust which runs the facility as we regenerate the site to ensure the new facility meets the needs of the whole community. We will particularly have to hold talks now with the Charity Commission as soon as possible to seek their agreement to our proposed redevelopment project and means of funding this."

Trevor Parsons, Chair of Fleetville Community Centre Trust said: "We are delighted to partner the Council to replace the existing building which has done sterling service and is held in great affection by the community over nearly eighty years."

A Beaumont street view

Salisbury Avenue is a C-shaped road with inner and outer numbering. Both arms connect with Beaumont Avenue. When part of the farm was sold in 1899, the first house built is believed to have been number 30 in c1913.

But it is easy to lose sight of the fine pairs of semi-detached homes on the inner northern arm, completed in 1921. Their frontages have neat brick detailing including window headers and a circular first floor window above the front doors. The land for these was acquired by Ben Pelly, a Fleetville shop owner, according to the Valuation Office Survey.

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Lulworth and Ashridge

Two of the original names given to these 1921-built homes on the northern arm of Salisbury Avenue.

Toy Soldiers

These are scouts training in the wilds of Tyttenhanger Green, probably in the grounds of Highfield Hall. In full costume they are rehearsing for a show presented annually in the thirties at the football ground, Clarence Park. Initially titled Searchlight Tattoo, in later years it included fireworks displays presented by Brock's Crystal Palace Fireworks. Wouldn't you just love to have been present?

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Attention!

This is not a junior squad of a clandestine army, but a different kind of training.

Teaming up to win

Here is Fleetville's football team in 1976/77, taken at the district's 6 a-side tournament played at Nicholas Breakspear field. It was forwarded by John Bishop as a colour image, but to improve the contrast we've changed it to monochrome. See Fleetville School page.

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Fleetville 1976/77

Richard Wilding, Gian Vetere, Anthony Hayes, ? , Lanek ? , Iain Bullock, John Bishop, Trevor Cox. FONT: Jonathan Cliffe, Tom Fisher, Tim Byram, Andrew Bullock, ? Stapleton.

Football at Cell Barnes

There have been many community football teams in our East End, including teams based on the streets of Fleetville, some going back to the district's very beginnings. Here is a newly discovered photograph from the early 1950s; two more from the same source have been transferred to Sopwell Memories as they are Cottonmill teams from the 1940s. A larger version of the photo below is on the Groups Gallery page.

Cell Barnes fb 1951-2
Cell Barnes 1951-2

Back row: not known, Ken Waller, not known, Eric Crunchman, now known Jack English. Front row: not known, Sid Wells, not known, Pete Denholm, not known

A meeting of Sanders – and Moons

Fleetville Diaries, the local history people, hosted a magnificent celebration of two related families: descendants of Frederick Sander, the "Orchid King", and descendants of Henry Moon whose exquisite paintings of the orchids Sander bred were published in four massive tomes.

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Sander & Moon Tribute Day

The result of Fleetville Diaries' project to renovate the family plot of the Sander/Moon families, was seen by eighty invited guests to Hatfield Road Cemetery and members of the Moon and Sander families.

When did you see one of these?

St Albans Council employed Aveling steam road rollers to maintain its road network, and an unknown photographer composed and took this image when it was used to repair a section of road near the gutter. We presume it was somewhere within the 1879 boundary since the pavement is laid with blue engineering blocks. We think it is near a T junction; otherwise there is little to identify the location. Trees, and even walls and fencing will have changed in the hundred years since the picture was taken, but someone with intimate knowledge of a particular corner of the city may be able to identify the spot.
Image courtesy Sandy Ross.

Ellenbrook Fields field and treeline
Rolling repairs

A road roller belonging to St Albans Council in the 1920s. What we'd like to know is its location when the photo was taken.

This might be a Tyttenhanger group

Peter has a copy of this photograph of a very casual-looking group, and he suspects this was a cricket team raised from the residents of Tyttenhanger Green, or perhaps from staff working at Hill End Hospital. Cell Barnes Hospital is discounted as the date of the picture is c1930, a few years before the opening of Cell Barnes Colony. One man has tentatively been identified as Henry Eames (front row centre).

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Test Eleven?

Somehow this does not look like a football team. so let's think cricket. Is there anyone you might recognise?

Fleetville streetscapes

When laid out Princes Road was short, connecting Tess Road (now Woodstock Road south) and Woodstock Road (now Woodstock Road north). Offered to the City Council by Earl Spencer for use as a cemetery but turned down, it was developed into thirty-two homes in c1901.

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Part of Woodstock Road south

Five pairs of homes on the west side (with two pairs hidden next to the school). The last two cream pairs were not added until the 1920s.

Second editions under way

Did you miss the opportunity to grab a copy of either or both volumes of the first editions of St Albans' Own East End? Perhaps you borrowed a copy from a library, or hoped a friend or relative might offer you a copy as a birthday or Christmas gift? Or maybe you've made much of your patience and are sitting it out in hope.

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Welcome news

Preparations are well under way on second editions, including new content. Keep an eye on this panel for updates.

We went to the Odeon Cinema
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The fourth full cinema on this site, and the third building, currently the only remaining full-time film theatre in the city. Visit the Odyssey to witness today's comfort.

We went to the Chequers Cinema
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First opened on the site of a former brewery operation in Chequer Street, the Chequers was the only cinema in the centre of St Albans.

We went to the Gaumont Cinema
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The only cinema east of the Midland Railway and therefore in the East End, the Gaumont (formerly called the Grand Palace) was in the otherwise residential Stanhope Road.

Early Camp memory
Mr Gear's shop
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Now number 155 Camp Road the above house was once a general store and post office, first opened by Thomas Gear in the first decade of the 20th century. Mr G Trottman then took over. Are there any photographs of number 155 as a shop?




Early Marshalswick
Commemorative trees
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The residents' association for the formative Marshalswick estate around The Ridgeway west, purchased a number of flowering almond trees for planting in the roadside verges during the Festival of Britain year, 1951. Apparently 112 were acquired. Was there a significance to this number, or was it simply the number that could be accommodated or afforded along the roads which were planted?

Early school journey
School goes to the Gower
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Mr Belcher, a teacher of Fleetville School, took a group of children to Port Eynon, on the Gower, in June 1955. If you were in that group, please well us all about your trip. We know that the return journey was delayed by a rail strike, and it seems likely there was much confusion in the attempt to keep the school and the parents informed.